April 29, 2023

From Mazatlán to the US Border

 


On Thursday April 6 we left Las Jaibas RV Park headed for the US Border.  The trip would be three days of driving with 2 overnights.  The first night would be near Los Mochis, Sinaloa and the second north of Guaymas, Sonora.  We left the park at 9 a.m. with our first stop to be a truck stop to get diesel.  Unlike many other RV’ers who typically get on the road at the break of dawn, we prefer to wake up at a decent hour.  After all, there is lots of daylight and we really are in no rush with no set schedule.  Temperatures in Mazatlán on our morning of departure were a nice 73ºF (23º C). 

This stretch of road is notoriously poor.  In fact most of the toll roads in the state of Sinaloa are in pretty rough shape.  There are some freshly repaired/repaved sections though which are a nice reprieve.  And some sections, although they look smooth, are in fact very uneven and wavy making the drive uncomfortable.  All kinds of different levels of crap road 😝.  Dan has a saying for the Sinaloan roads “there are patches of highway where it’s all patches and no highway

One funny and unique thing we noticed in the state of Sinaloa are the cardboard cutout cop car speed deterrents.  Maybe they’re in other states too, but we only saw them once in Sinaloa.

Is that a cop up ahead?  Oh, no…just a cardboard cutout 😝 

We stopped for the night at a very nice gas station/truck stop north of Los Mochis.  A fully fenced level and well lit concrete lot provided a nice quiet night’s rest.  And, as a bonus there was a small restaurant/cafe onsite so we enjoyed some burritos and a couple frapuccinos.

Overnight stop north of Los Mochis just south of the border into the State of Sonora

Nice quiet spot in the corner.  We had to disconnect the truck to back in, then reconnect for ease of departure in the morning.  

Enough room to open the bedroom slide for some fresh air, more room to move around the bed and so the boys can check out the sights and smells.

Mazatlán to north of Los Mochis

Total driven = 289 miles
Total tolls = 7
Total cost tolls = $1908 pesos ($140 Cdn)
Fuel
- Fill in MZ @ 24.59 pesos/litre = $3668 pesos ($269 Cdn) 
- Fill in Los Mochis @24.57 pesos/litre = $3516 pesos ($276 Cdn)
Accommodation = Free

Friday April 7 we headed from Los Mochis toward Guaymas.  Once again, a reasonable start getting on the road at 9:15 a.m. and temperatures nice at 71ºF (22ºC). This would be a relatively short day of driving with an ETA at our stop for the night by 1 p.m. In this stretch we exited the state of Sinaloa and entered Sonora.  It’s a very welcome change particularly because of the much improved condition of the roads once in Sonora.  This trip I took a series of short video clips to show the road conditions from Los Mochis to the border.  In the end, a brief 13 minute video highlights some of what the conditions are like and the vast difference between the two states (other than the small stretch of toll road in Vicam).  Click the picture below to take you to the short YouTube video.

We arrived at our stop for the night, the Fletcha (called Fletna last year) fuel station and truck stop right on time at 1:00.  We stayed here last year as well in the gated and secure truck parking lot.  Although last year cost $50 pesos, this year it was free.  This is a traditional style truck stop with a lounge for truckers to rest and watch some tv, play pool or cards etc.  There is also laundry facilities and showers.  Rather than use our water we opted to try their showers.  A nice high pressure and hot shower for $120 pesos ($9 Cdn) for the both of us. There is also a nice restaurant on site that makes good food.


North of Los Mochis to north of Guaymas

Total driven = 180 miles
Total tolls = 4
Total cost tolls = $1184 pesos ($89 Cdn)
Fuel - fill @ Fletcha station = $2265 pesos ($200 Cdn)
Accommodation = Free
Temperature at arrival 90ºF (32ºC)

Our final day in Mexico, we left our overnight stop a bit earlier than normal and were on the road by 8:00 a.m. Our destination was first the Temporary Import Permit return booths then the Mariposa Truck Border crossing.  Morning temperatures were a consistent beautiful 72ºF (22ºC).  In total we had about 4.5 hours of driving ahead of us.  It was in this stretch that our RV crossed the 12,000 mile point too.  We’ve been putting some good mileage on her and thankfully, the DEF simulator continued to work like a charm.

Heffay figured out a way to squeeze into the cab.  As a pup he fit in here nicely.  
This year it takes quite a bit of manoeuvring to get comfortable 😊 

We stopped for a break and some lunch in a nice little town named Imuris which the 15D Toll highway runs directly through.  It was a good time to use up the last of the eggs we had in the fridge for a tasty fried egg sandwich.  If we didn’t have to eat up the eggs though, I would have loved to try some of the various food stands set up in the small park.  Next year perhaps.

Imuris was founded as “San José de Imuris” by Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino in 1687

Lots of room to pull over for a break along this small park


By 1 p.m. we were back on the road headed toward the Banjerito to return our Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for the truck.  The RV has a 10 year TIP issued last year, so no need to do anything with it.  Returning the truck TIP before our Tourist Visas’s expire ensures we get the $600C deposit back we paid when we entered MX. We arrived at the banjerito at 1:30 after almost missing it!  Dan had to make a quick manouever to get into the area after we realized at the last minute we were about to pass it!  Sheesh! I wasn’t a very good navigator that afternoon, lol. 

The booths to return the TIP.  Although it appears the right hand lane is the only one open, we wait in the middle as there is no way to navigate the tight corner at the end of the far right lane. 

This year there was no line and after no more than 10 minutes of paperwork and picture taking of the truck/VIN, we were on our way with confirmation of the refund to our credit card in hand.  Last year was a much different story where we waited in line for at least 30 minutes.

The final stretch before the US border

By 2 p.m. we were at the Mariposa Truck Crossing Border.  Here too we were lucky to have no wait at all.     We literally drove right up and were motioned over to the RV area.  We got the same food inspection agent as last year and we were happy to tell him we had no prohibited items this year.  Those frozen chicken breasts last year almost got us a $400 fine.  We actually joked a bit with the agent, clarifying that we had no fresh or FROZEN chicken.  Last year he asked if we had any “fresh chicken” only later to realize when he boarded us and went through the freezer that he considered frozen chicken “fresh”. He got a chuckle out of it this year though, so that was good.  Last year he wasn’t so humoured and instead reminded us that he was letting us off with just a verbal warning instead of issuing a $400 fine.  

This year we didn’t have to open all the bay doors or the truck either, that saved considerable time.  After the fridge/cupboard inspection was done they sent us through the big X-ray machine and we were on our way.  Super easy and fast and really friendly border guards which is such a treat!

By 2:20 we were in the US, headed to our overnight stop.  We arrived at the Arizona department of transportation rest stop (also known as the Canoa Rest Stop) in Amado, AZ at 3:15 with enough light to give all the boys a well deserved walk.  All in all, another wonderful snowbird trip to Mexico under our belts.  Of course not considering the stress of the DEF header issue the day we left Lo de Marcos.  But, that too turned out to be not too bad given Dan’s phenomenal preparation skills.

AZ DOT Rest Stop

North of Guaymas to Mariposa Truck Border Crossing, Nogales MX

Total driven = 278 miles
Total tolls = 4
Total cost tolls = $843 pesos ($64 Cdn)
Fuel - no more fills in MX 
Accommodation = Free
Temperature at arrival 84ºF (29ºC)

Summary Lo de Marcos to US Border

Total miles driven = 1018 miles 
Total tolls = 23
Total cost tolls = $7,508 pesos ($561 Cdn)
    Lo de Marcos to Mazatlán= $3573 pesos ($268 Cdn)
    MZ to Los Mochis = $1908 pesos ($140 Cdn)
    LM to Guaymas = $1184 pesos ($89 Cdn)
    GM to Border = $843 pesos ($64 Cdn)
Fuel - $12,350 pesos ($962 Cdn)
Accommodation = 3 nights free at fuel stations, 1 week in Mazatlán $3600 pesos ($274 Cdn)


April 25, 2023

Ah S*#T!! Lo de Marcos to Mazatlán

 


On March 30th we left La Parota RV Park in Lo de Marcos.  It was a late departure, we didn’t drive through the gate until 11 a.m. We had intended to leave earlier in the morning but the final packing up took us a bit longer than expected.  Our destination for the day was Mazatlán (MZ) and our plan was to simply drive straight for the border, stopping every mid afternoon to spend the night at a gas station rest stop.  It would be 3 nights and 3.5 days of driving to get to the border.  Although we’d talked about stopping in Mazatlán for a week or so, by the time the end of March came we felt ready to head out of Mexico.  When we got to the states we figured we’d spend a week or so in Arizona while we waited for the temperatures to warm up further north.

I guess the morning didn’t really get off to a good start, given we didn’t get on the road until just before noon.  But little did we realize how bad the day would get.  Within five minutes of leaving the RV park we  snagged a low hanging branch stretched out over the middle of the road.  Don’t you know….it happened to snag the TV antenna.  That is the same TV antenna we had to replace after ripping it off with a low hanging branch the night before we arrived in LDM for the season.  At our first stop for fuel I had a chance to assess the damage.  Thankfully the antenna did not break, the branch simply pulled it up screws and all, tilting it backwards.  With some Eternabond tape I was able to re-attach it to the roof.  Phew!  No need to purchase another replacement TV antenna.  Then we tried plugging our Garmin RV GPS in, it had failed on us on the way down in Phoenix.  We thought the issue was the magnetic mount that the GPS plugs into and so had ordered a new one while in LDM.  Apparently, that didn’t solve the issue.  All in all, neither leaving late nor the TV antenna incident was all that bad. As for the GPS, we had a backup on in the truck that we were able to use.  Minor inconveniences all in all.  It wasn’t until we merged onto the 15D toll road, off of highway 68 that things got really interesting.  

After considerable conversation about whether we’d taken the right route as our surroundings weren’t looking familiar, the RV Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) gauge went from reading full with four green bars to empty, a yellow warning light then a flashing red light followed by two check engine lights coming on!  OMG….this couldn’t be happening.!  No not here in Mexico!  Sadly these diesel rigs are notorious for DEF header failures which is exactly what these flashing warning lights were indicating.  Dan was dreading it happening since the day we bought the RV, but hoped if/when it did that it would at least be in Canada or the States, not Mexico where DEF systems aren’t necessarily as common not to mention the language barrier dealing with such a serious issue.

Typically what happens when the DEF header fails is all these lights come on then the engine “de-rates” limiting the speed the vehicle can drive to 5 mph, allowing just enough motion to keep going although at a snails pace, until you can get to a service centre.  And, everyone warns NOT to turn the engine off as it likely won’t start again or allow you to move if you do.  So, here we were half an hour south of Tepic and 3.5 hours from Mazatlán, basically in the middle of nowhere.  What could we do but continue to drive and wait and see what happened, wondering how long it would be before we de-rated.  Meanwhile I googled where the Freightliner service centre’s were hoping one was in Tepic, a fairly big city.  I also dug out the number for Good Sam, our roadside assistance provider just incase.  Thankfully, there was a Freightliner service centre in Tepic so on we went, tensed to the nine’s hoping we’d make it there without the engine dying. I can’t even imagine having the RV towed and all the hassle that would bring moving three cats and a dog into the truck while we followed along.  And let’s not even think about the damage and havoc it would inevitably cause to the inside of the RV being towed down Mexican roads!

Where we were when the DEF system began to fail
At 2 p.m. we pulled into the Freightliner service centre in Tepic.  To get into the lot we needed to unhook the truck from the RV so Dan could back in.  I’ve become quite good at unhooking the truck fairly quickly, so even though we had to do it while stopped on a busy street, we didn’t hold up traffic for too long.  At least four men came out into the entrance way when we backed in, curious to see our rig I’m sure.  Using google translate we explained our issue.  Dan also had the quick thinking to have me take a video of the dash while he was driving with all the warning lights on so we were able to show them that.  Of course their first question was “do you have DEF in the tank?” - duh, of course!  But fair enough question I suppose.  Then right there in the entrance of their centre they went to work to remove the access panel to the DEF header where they unhooked and blew on some connections before plugging them back together.  Sadly, this wasn’t enough to fix the issue.  Although the lights temporarily were off when we restarted the engine, the lights all came back on within a couple minutes.  They then tried to clear the codes, but told us they didn’t have the software to clear them.  And, as much as it sounds like we were just conversing as you would normally, I have to say the language barrier made this situation even more stressful.  Even with google translate things are lost in the translation causing frustration for both parties. After about an hour of trying to trouble shoot and even a test drive around the block with them, we were no further ahead.  Then, mysteriously all the men just disappeared.  They simply walked away back into the service yard leaving us sitting there scratching our heads.  I guess they were done and I guess they weren’t going to charge us for the time they had taken trying to help us?  Interesting.  As I got the truck and positioned it to re-connect to the RV one of the men came out and gave me the name and number to the Freightliner service centre in MZ.  That was basically our only option, try to get to MZ and hope that they could help us.  So we started up the RV and took our chances, knowing it could choose to de-rate us at any time.  We were 3.5 hours still from MZ and knew we wouldn’t get there before dark.   We’d have to stop for the night somewhere along the way and then hope again that in the morning the engine would start up.  

We ended up finding a Pemex, arriving just in time before darkness set in shortly after 7 p.m.  There was a Pemex on both sides of the highway.  The south facing one was open and actively lit up while the north facing one essentially closed.  Although it had a big lot, it was not well lit and had numerous pot holes.  But, it was our only option for the night so we took the chance and stayed there.  It was a very quiet night with no issues, thankfully.

The morning of March 31st we rolled the dice and attempted to start the engine after a night of rest.  Once again, our Beautiful Beast roared to life for us.  Within minutes though, her warning lights were all lit up again.  What were we to do though but forge on in hopes we’d make it to MZ on our own.  While Dan drove I googled the Freightliner service centre, Camiones Venice.  They are a chain service centre and by sheer luck they had means to communicate using WhatsApp, a calling and texting platform widely used in MX. The reason this was so “lucky” was because having the ability to text would allow me to use google translate to communicate.  There was no way I could “call” and try and convey our issue.  As much as I’ve been learning Spanish over the last number of years, it’s a totally different level of language mastery needed to communicate over the phone.  To me it feels like I’m in the path of rapid fire when I try and speak to someone in Spanish over the phone.  I basically freeze and don’t know how to move forward at all. And without any visual queues they just keep on rapid fire speaking as if that will help me understand better 😬 I couldn’t even order a simple pizza over the phone let alone explain a mechanical issue.   Sheesh! So, while Dan drove I texted back and forth using google translate talking to their call centre who were making arrangements for an appointment at their MZ location.  
A snip of my WhatsApp conversation with the service centre
After explaining the issue we were having, sharing the video clip of the dash while we drove with all the lights on and confirming the location in MZ had the “software” needed to diagnose the problem for certain, the friendly customer service agent advised me that they were booked up but could get us in on Monday April 3rd.  That sounded great, but we had to also think about what we’d do with the three cats and the dog while the RV was in for service.  Ideally, having a mobile mechanic come to us in an RV park would be best.  To do that though, we needed to be able to tell them where we’d be located.  Given the time of year, RV parks are typically emptied out so we were fortunate to get a space in Las Jaibas RV park where we’d spent one night on the way home last year.  Having secured a spot, I relayed the location and the appointment was set for a man named Irían to come to us on Monday morning.  We breathed a sigh of relief once we made it all the way to the park without the engine de-rating on us.  
A few fellow Canadian RV’ers, most stopping over briefly on their way home
Our spot under a Mango tree
We booked ourselves in for a week, hoping that would be enough time for the issue to be diagnosed and fixed but also knowing that Semana Santa was creeping up on us quickly.  A few other RV’ers were in the park, some who’d been there for most of the winter while others were there for a short stop over as they made their way home. And because we knew our mom’s would worry, we didn’t share what was going on.  Instead we just told them we’d decided to stay a week in MZ 😉 

Monday morning came and at 9:50 I went to the park entrance to wait for Irían’s arrival.  Ten o’clock came, then 10:30 and I told myself, don’t stress…it’s Mexico.  Time is only a suggestion for the most part.  At 10:45 I went into the office where I met Rafael, the park manager.  He is a super friendly man who speaks perfect English and he offered to help by calling the local Freightliner service centre.  Sadly, he just got the call centre when he called as the local shop did not have a direct line.  It was then that he said “well, it’s 9:50 now so I guess they have some more time”.  DUH!  I hadn’t realized the time on my phone was wrong.  I thought I set the time to update automatically but apparently I hadn’t.  Didn’t I feel silly!  Ok, let’s not worry then. I’d just go back and wait a bit longer.  Sadly the true 10 a.m. came, then 10:30, then 11:00 and no Irían.  I went back to my text conversation to ask for help and of course that ticket had closed.  A new thread was opened and someone different was now helping me, they recommended that I call their call centre and open a formal ticket to ensure I got service but also said that Irían should be there the following day, Tuesday April 4 at 10 a.m. You can likely see where this is going.  Tuesday comes and again another no show.  This time Raphael offers to help me by calling the call centre to open the “ticket” they recommended previously.  He goes through details of our issue, sends the video again, gives them our VIN and they then tell him….the warranty expired APRIL 3, 2023…the day PRIOR!!!!!!  Whaaaaatttt? Could this get worse? Plus, in order to have anyone show up we’d have to pay $2600 pesos (approx $250) upfront via a bank deposit.  They would not take credit nor cash.  AND, once the mobile mechanic came and diagnosed the problem, we’d have to pay him upfront for the work BEFORE they did anything. Wow!  Oh and I mentioned it was getting to be the busy period of Semana Santa…that meant that we could guarantee nothing would happen between at least Thursday April 6 and Sunday April 9th.  Needless to say, we were very hesitant to given them money up front not knowing if anyone would even show up let alone how long it would take to fix the issue. 

In hopes the Freightliner help centre could “help” we called them.  They’re located in the States. What a joke that turned out to be.  The number to dial is literally FTL-HELP.  After explaining our issue and hoping they might be able to help us in liaising with the local service centre they told us there was nothing they could do, they don’t have anyone that speaks Spanish and all the Freightliner service centres are individually owned.  They had no means to follow up or enquire as to the status of our service etc.  They did confirm that the main engine/chassis warranty had indeed expired but that if it was a DEF issue, that warranty was good until April 2025.  Concerned that the Mexican service centre would not file through warranty given what they told Raphael, we asked what our options would be.  The help desk told us the service centre would have to file through them for warranty purposes.  And what if they didn’t we asked? Well, if they didn’t and we ended up having to pay out of pocket we’d have to write an email to Freightliner USA along with the service order and details from them of the service provided.  They would then decide whether they’d reimburse us.  But, wouldn’t that all be in Spanish?  And they don’t have anyone who speaks/knows Spanish??  Ugh, freaking lovely! So much for the “help” centre helping us in any way shape or form.  I’m not sure what their purpose is.  Maybe it is just to send tow service to you when broken down.  Before depositing any money into the service centre’s account, we asked Raphael to help us by calling other diesel mechanics.  He got through to one who said they’d send a mobile mechanic but would get back to us on how much it would cost us.  After waiting a day, they finally got back to us and quoted $1850 ($140 Cdn) pesos for the mobile mechanic call out.  Reasonable considering what a mobile service call would cost in Cda or the US. But if it was a DEF warranty issue, we had to go through a Freightliner service centre or there would definitely be no coverage or reimbursement.

Next step was to pull out our Good Sam RV Roadside assistance plan and read the fine print.  Although we weren’t in need of a tow truck (at least not yet) our plan indicated they would attempt to assist in arranging for a mobile mechanic to come to the disablement location as an alternative to towing the RV. After all, if it could be fixed without a tow, that would save them a lot of money.  And, they had a number to call when in Mexico which should make the language issue a little less of a barrier assuming they would speak Spanish.  The fellow I got was very helpful, he confirmed that we weren’t stranded on the side of the road anywhere and that we were safe, I explained that we needed help in getting a mobile mechanic to our location to diagnose rather than risk trying to drive it and being de-rated necessitating a tow.  He said he’d make connections locally and would get back to us.  Great!  Within half hour I got a WhatsApp text from another Good Sam employee asking me for more information, our VIN, the problem, our location etc.  All sounded wonderful until they asked me “where do you want to be towed, what service station?”  For crying out loud, we didn’t want a tow!  We were asking for assistance in getting a mobile mechanic to our location.  The conversation I had with the first person obviously didn’t get relayed accurately to this person.  When I clarified we were needing help in getting a mobile mechanic they told me I had to call a different number as they were just responsible for arranging towing.  Ugh, by this time it was past 9 o’clock and we said screw it and decided to just sit down and watch a movie to try to unwind.  

The next morning we decided to try another route all together.  We were becoming very leery of waiting on any local mechanics to help us so Dan reached into the emergency toolkit he prepared and low and behold, he was able to “fix” the issue himself!!  I am totally serious, even though it sounds too good to be true.  Being a perpetual planner and having researched everything to know about these notorious DEF system failures as soon as we bought the RV he built and programmed a circuit board using instructions from an RV FaceBook group.  The sensor itself is what is failing, thinking there is no DEF fluid when in fact there is fluid in the tank.  Called a “DEF simulator” it tricks the sensor into thinking there is always 3/4 tank of DEF.  We weren’t sure if it would work, but on Wednesday morning April 5th Dan hooked it up, successfully cleared all the error codes from the engine computer with his BlueFire app and started the rig without ANY lights coming on!  It indeed WORKED!  He then confirmed through the RV FB group that it should work indefinitely so long as it’s kept plugged in and should get us to another service centre without any problem.  They key was ensuring we kept the DEF tank topped up as the gauge would always read 3/4 full while this was hooked up.  Not a problem!
The waterproof plastic box in the upper right corner of this picture contains the circuit board wired to the DEF header.  Bungees securely attached it to the frame of the RV.
This is what it looks like as built
Having temporarily fixed the issue and confident we could continue our journey out of Mexico, we spent the day exploring the Golden Zone of MZ.  What a big and busy city, even busier during the height of Semana Santa. We like the contrast of MZ to LDM, they are complete opposites to one another.  LDM is the small quiet authentic feel beach town while MZ is the busy huge city full of resorts, restaurants and all the shopping you’d ever need.  We were also pleasantly surprised at our stay in Las Jaibas.  Although not on the beach and surrounded by an unsightly concrete wall that separates it from the new condo development, there is a beautiful breeze that keeps air moving.  It also has a small pool which is a nice option to have when not on the ocean.  We also really liked the climate in MZ.  In LDM when we left it was starting to get pretty hot as spring approached.  In contrast, in MZ the temps were cooler and with the strong breeze we even put long sleeves and pants on at night.  The city also has beautifully maintained bike paths throughout.  A great opportunity to use eBikes to explore.   We like the contrast between the two locations and made the decision that we’ll definitely spend more time in MZ next winter (so new eBikes on order lol!)

Here are a few random shots of our brief exploration of MZ during our short stay
Mazatlán is well known for it’s stunning sunsets.  Such vibrant colours!
No way to get a clear shot of this given all the people during Semana Santa.  Maybe next year.
Yep, you’re seeing right….it’s a scorpion!  First one I’ve encountered in MX, although I know they are prevalent.  This guy curled up in the sun shade we had over the cat tent.  I was glad I found him before he found me!  Hard to tell size in this picture, I’d say he’s about the size of a tree frog.
View of the beach along the malecon.  No swimming signs everywhere due to a wicked rip tide.
Malecon

All kinds of construction underway.  Cranes as far as the eye could see!
Cool little taxi’s called Pulmonias.  
A bit too loud and windy for us though, we’ll stick with the regular taxi’s
Another interesting version of an open air taxi
Traffic circle right at the start of the malecon.  All kinds of interesting vehicles including many quad’s that were also for rent on the main street.  
We particularly loved the bike lanes that seem to be everywhere throughout the city (although not captured in this picture)
Although our week wasn’t up until Friday April 7th, we decided we’d hit the road on Thursday.  We didn’t need to exit Mexico until April 23, but knowing we had this issue only temporarily fixed we were eager to get back on the road.  Our goal was to at least make it to the States where we could try again to have the issue fixed at a Freightliner service centre in either Tucson or Phoenix.

Lo de Marcos to Mazatlán

Total # tolls = 8
Total cost of tolls = $113p ($9 Cdn) + $240p ($18 Cdn)+ $405p ($30 Cdn) + $350p ($26 Cdn) + $495p ($37 Cdn) + $1145p ($86 Cdn) + $595p ($45 Cdn) + $230p ($17) = $3753 pesos ($268 Cdn)
Total driven - 174 miles (278 km)
Accommodation cost - $3600 pesos ($271 Cdn) for seven nights at Las Jaibas RV Park, MZ
Fuel - Filled in Lo de Marcos: $2902 Pesos ($217 Cdn) - 117.5 litres @ $24.70 pesos/litre ($1.86 Cdn/litre)
  




April 10, 2023

March 2023 Recap

As March arrives the conversation in the park turns to the topic of departure.  When are you leaving, what route are you taking, are you stopping along the way or just heading to the border?  Many of the snowbirds leave between the middle and end of March, avoiding the busy crowds during semana santa - the week leading up to the easter long weekend. In fact, some RV parks even require their guests to leave by March 31 so to allow them to open the park to Mexican families who flock to the beaches for the holy days.  Not in our park though, we could stay year round if we wanted.  Or more like, if we could stand the temperatures and humidity 😊.


A picture of the beaches in Mazatlan during Semana Santa 2023 😳 

March also starts to see warmer days and increasing humidity and that too gets people thinking about heading north.  Of course, there are also some Canadian snowbirds who’s provinces only allow them to be gone for a maximum of six months or else they’ll have to re-qualify for their provincial health benefits.  Although many people assume you have to be in your province for a minimum of six months to retain coverage, it is wise to call your local provincial health care contact line to confirm.  I’ve read articles in Snowbird Advisor recently that incorrectly say in BC you have to be in the province at least six months.  This is not correct.  I confirmed with Health BC that we must be in the province 153 days of the calendar year to maintain coverage (approx 5 months).  


This year by Sunday March 26th our park was 75% empty.  Only a few snowbirds choose to store their RV’s either here in the park or in a covered storage facility 20 minutes away.  The majority choose to travel back and forth, returning home whether it’s in the US or Canada.  Last year we decided to stay through Semana Santa.  We left Lo de Marcos on April 21, 2022.   This year we decided to head north sooner, leaving the park on Thursday March 30 just before the traffic starts to get busy as Mexicans head to the beaches.  Most are off work and out of school as of Friday March 31st.  


With the thinning of the snowbird crowds RV parks also start to see the waning of conveniences like the vegetable, fish and bakery trucks that frequent the RV parks.  In LDM we were lucky to have Enrique come to us daily during the peak season, selling his wonderful produce, eggs, cheese and assorted snacks.   By early April his visits reduce and then peter off completely until the next season.

Enrique’s veggie truck
Enrique is on the far right.
Such a friendly man, always with a smile on his face and sometimes signing a tune music 🎶

This month we accomplished a few things, perhaps the most significant was having our recliners and our dinette booth recovered.  We never really liked the mud brown colour of the dinette and when we got the recliners last year we settled on a dark grey colour because there were no lighter colours in stock.


This year we found a wonderful upholsterer in Los Ayala, a small town about 20 minutes from LDM.  The business definitely has a different “curbside appeal”  than what we’re used to in Canada or the US.  But, the woman and her daughters do wonderful work!

The upholsterer’s shop/home is on the right.  
You can see our recliners sitting out front ready for us to pick up

We chose a light cream colour faux leather fabric and WOW, what a difference!  It is so much brighter!  Of course we’ll have to keep them covered mostly to protect them from the cats claws and the dirty dog who likes to sneak up on the recliner to sleep.  I purchased a couple Mexican blankets from the market this year with the intention of making some head/arm rest covers for the recliners and some back covers for the kitchen bench.  I’ll work on those once home where I have my sewing machine.  She had them finished in two weeks.  Total cost $14k pesos (about $1000 Cdn)


Before and After
From dark and drab to bright and light 

Not surprisingly, we had to get a tire repaired this month too.  It was losing air and the culprit was a small nail.   The tire repair we went to is just outside the town on the main highway.  Total cost $180 pesos or about $13 Cdn




After the tire was repaired I ventured into the La Cruz market with my neighbour May.  In March another new stretch of the Toll/Cuota highway was finished allowing a much faster drive into La Cruz, Bucerias and Puerto Vallarta.  The road is beautiful with three tunnels cut through mountains.  It is pricey though at $223 pesos each way for a car (about $17 Cdn).  Well worth it for the infrequent amount of times we go into the big city.  It cuts the drive from a minimum 45 minutes on a good day (as in no traffic or accidents on hwy 200)  down to 19 minutes!  Plus, there are no small villages you need to slow down for and the topes/speed bumps that come with those small villages.  


The La Cruz market was unbelievable!  At first it seemed like just another normal market like the ones here in LDM or in La Peñita or San Francisco with the same kinds of vendors set up in the town square.  But then you walk toward the marina and there are at least 2 miles of additional vendors with all kinds of different and unique wares for sale.  At the end of the long stretch of vendors is a circle of various food vendors.  What a gorgeous setting for a market.  


Speaking of food vendors, by the time we got to them I was famished.  The first sign I saw advertising burritos I was in, only to realize once I went to order that it was a vegan vendor.  The “meat” in the burrito was actually seasoned and fried yucca fruit.  As I hesitated before finalizing my order the woman asked me if I’d like to try the yucca.  Well, why not.  She gave me a small spoon off the grill and wow, I was impressed!  It tasted like meat and had the same texture of meat.  She also said that when you see the taco vendors on the side of the road with the big turning spit of meat that it too is yucca.  Who knew?  So, why not, I ordered the vegan burrito complete with cashew cheese.  


Unfortunately, once I got the burrito I realized after a few bites that it wasn’t really all that good.  A bite was ok, but a full burrito of it was too much for me. The flavour wasn’t as rich and the texture was ever so slightly off from the texture of meat.  I was able to eat half of it though as I needed to get some food into me. I’m glad I tried it, but it wouldn’t be something I’d order again.  


When I got home and told Dan the first thing out of his mouth when I said “I tried a vegan burrito” was “GET OUT!”  LOL.  I reassured him there was no risk of me turning into a vegan or forcing him into one.  I knew he’d react that way 😝 


Views from the La Cruz market - a small place to take a seat and rest looking out to the harbour

Vendor canopies as far as the eye can see.  They go straight ahead in the pic then veer almost all the way to the left hand side of the shot

Cool textures against the ocean background

More cool textures and some sailboats in the distance

In March we also took advantage of the convenience in having a massage right at your RV site.  Dan and I both had an hour long deep tissue massage.  The masseuse was very friendly although there was still the language barrier.  I think the highlight of the experience was when she saw Gizmo in his tent on the patio.  She was enamored by him and wanted to see him.  I opened the tent and let her pet him and then she just let him wander off, instead of putting him back inside the tent.  I quickly scooped him up and put him inside.  She then told us she thought it was really sad that we had our cats “in jail” and asked why we didn’t let them roam free.  We had a good chuckle.  Here we are thinking we are keeping them safe and out of mischief while allowing them time outside that they wouldn’t otherwise get and she thought it was “sad” to see them “locked up”.  Definitely a difference in view points 😊.   Two one hour massages at our RV site cost us $1550 pesos (approx $114 Cdn).  She was quite a spiritual masseuse and at one point I think she was trying to tell me I had a green aura or green chakra.  She kept tapping my heart and saying “verde/green”.  I later learned that she also does Reiki, so perhaps it has something to do with that.  That was a moment I wish I could have understood better.  


As part of our trip to the upholsterer we took a quick trip into Guayabitos with HeyZeus.  He loves truck rides, particularly by himself and the bonus of exploring new areas.

Town square Guayabitos
Look at that face!  His focus was locked on a bird he later chased but missed. 
Lots of work on the archways in the small towns over the last couple of years typically depicting local nature and peoples
I just love these bold 3D signs located throughout Mexico.  Always so vibrant.  
Each community puts their own spin on the design with specific detail added to each colourful letter.

We also saw some cool trees, one in Guayabitos and another in San Francisco (San Pancho)

Such a cool tree in Guayabitos.  
It grew over the wall, reaching it’s roots into the water runoff channel on the other side
Reaching into the water runoff
View from the front, I love all the contrast and shadows.
This cool tree is in San Francisco (San Pancho) near the weekly market.  
Beautiful!

In March we started to experience more frequent power issues, usually around 4-6 pm when voltage would drop causing the surge protector to cut off power to the RV.  It was going on and off so frequently each day that we began to worry about the impact on our surge protector and also our transfer switch which identifies the source of power (post, generator, batteries) and switches between those.  We were convinced the post was faulty as it would only take a small tap/jiggle of the external surge protector to cut out the power completely.  Sure seemed like loose wires in the post to us.  Although Juan Jose tried to fix it by replacing the receptacle that we plug into, the issues continued.   We think we might invest in a new electrical auto former for next year which helps to boost power by 10% when it drops below the level it should be at.  Power issues are notoriously known in Mexico, so no use in getting upset.  It is just frustrating over time.


This late in the season we started to notice the weather changing.  Temperatures and humidity levels were increasing creating a bit more discomfort in the day.  Highs were 32 with humidity in the 70-90% range. The nights were also staying warmer, causing us to put the AC on overnight more than we had been leading up to the middle of March.  


As we neared the end of the month, we talked about staying longer but decided that we didn’t want to stay through the busy days of Semana Santa this year, particularly because we expected it to be much busier than last year due to covid impacts being over, and because of the increasing temperatures.


A few random pictures of Lo de Marcos


A new mural added to the mural wall
Beautiful mural wall
Peaceful 
The local mini-super grocery store
Pretty restaurant table looking toward the square
Cool bench that was added our first winter in LDM in 2021/22
Check out the sculptures, notice anything odd? 😊 

Another cool tree, this one on the main street in LDM
As we got ready to pack up we also made decisions to sell some things rather than pack them up and bring them home.  Among them were our electric bikes which we hadn’t used once this year and only used 2-3 times last year.  We also sold our Camp Chef outdoor propane oven.  We had just bought it when we got home from last winter.  The idea was to bake bread in it outside.  But sadly we couldn’t ever get the temperature to hold at steady and so the bread never turned out.  No sense hauling that huge bulky thing back and forth.  Plus, I mastered how to use the convection oven for baking bread and cakes so we were covered.  Lastly, the day before we left we were trying to figure out where to put the washer/spinner we had just bought while down there this year.  It was SO handy to be able to do our own laundry, to have it back the same day AND to get ALL of it back.  But, did we really need to haul it back and forth?  We could just as easily buy another one next year (and sell it upon leaving). We definitely made our money back from what we would have spent on laundry costs.  So, sell it we did!  Problem solved, no need now to try and figure out where to put it in the RV for the drive home.  All those sales made a difference allowing us to pay for the re-upholstering of the furniture as well as giving us enough pesos to pay the tolls to get out of MX.  I estimated we’d need close to $6000 pesos for tolls to exit or approx $445 Cdn.

Another first this month, Dan went to see a doctor in the town of La Peñita 20 minutes or so north of LDM.  He’d been having some pain in his elbow/forearm and thought he might have injured it moving around the heavy kayak.  It was just like a modern walk in clinic at home.  Very clean but no wait.  The consult itself was $600 pesos ($45 Cdn) then a shot of cortizone in backside and some additional meds followed by another cortizone shot 10 days later and a recommendation to come back the following week for an ultrasound and x-ray.  Unfortunately, we were leaving and wouldn’t have time to get back for the ultrasound and x-ray but we were able to fill the prescriptions.  As mentioned in my prior blog, medications are very expensive.  They cost us $2500 pesos or $185 Cdn.  The best part was that the pain disappeared almost instantly, hopefully allowing it to heal.  A follow up in Canada will be required, but at least Dan can drive home and not be in pain.


And our drama with HoseHey and Gizmo continues.  HoseHey just will NOT accept Gizmo, poor little guy.  We have to keep a close eye on HoseHey whenever he is near Gizmo and we continue to need to keep Gizmo closed in the bedroom with us overnight.  HeyZeus is great and he too spends the night with us in the bedroom while HoseHey has to hang out with Heffay.  We had a particularly bad incident where HoseHey got to Gizmo and put a bad beating on him.  He nicked his ear which was dripping blood and he also scratched his eye which was weeping like crazy.  That’s ALL I needed, another freaking eye injury!!!  Thankfully we had eye drops left so I proactively put some in Gizmo’s eye and within a couple days it was back to normal. It’s really disappointing HoseHey is such a bully.  I’m not sure he’ll ever come around.  As we got closer to leaving I started to feel the stress of wondering how in the heck they’d all travel together.  The bed is Gizmo’s safe space but while driving HoseHey and HeyZeus always settle into their cat beds on the bed.  I guess only time will tell how it all works out.  Hopefully I don’t have to put HoseHey in a carrier to keep Gizmo safe!




As we round out our second snowbird trip to LDM I tallied up the costs of our rent and electric.  

Rent = $12,000 pesos/month.  Five months from November to end March = $60k pesos.  Dollar fluctuations ranged from $868 to $940 Cdn.  Total $4,400 Cdn (Average $880/mo)


Electrical = paid $3.5 pesos/kWh.  Total used 6703 kWh over five months.  Paid on departure equated to $503 Cdn (Average $100/mo)

    

Average monthly cost Rent + Hydro = $980 Cdn


It’s always bittersweet leaving.  Although on one hand after five months we’re ready for a change, all it takes is a quick walk to the beach and you start asking yourself “why do we have to leave”? 😊 Then the sweat drips off our brow and we remember it’s getting too hot to be comfortable.  I look forward to returning home to family, having the house and the yard for the animals to run around and play, soaking in the hot tub and starting all over again with our snowbird stocking up.  

Before the blogs turn to our journey home, here are a few last shots of the beach in LDM.  It was another wonderful snowbird winter in Mexico.  As much as we don’t necessarily look forward to the long drive, we definitely look forward to returning to Mexico next winter.









And finally, some beautiful sunset photos on the beach.

Talk about right place at the right time!  
How beautiful is this shot?
Love the reflection of the pink clouds on the surface of the water




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